Tremosine sul Garda is somewhat overshadowed by the well-known surfing holiday hotspots on the northern shore of Lake Garda. And that's a good thing, because the clocks tick a little slower on the western shore of the lake, which was only recently developed for tourism. Here, on the border between Lombardy and Trentino, the lakeside roads are not yet overcrowded, the pasta still tastes like la mamma's and the trails are a touch steeper - including the historically significant Passo Nota, the signature trail of Tremosine. A very different kind of Lake Garda experience awaits us here on our mountain bikes.

Our destination - the Passo Nota nature trail - takes us a little away from the shore - but of course Lake Garda is always in play up here. Tremosine lies on a plateau in the Alto Garda Bresciano National Park and towers around 400 metres above Lake Garda, as if on a sunny balcony. And in the hinterland of the mountain bike region, we find the trail of our dreams: the Passo Nota. Impressive views are guaranteed on the circular tour - the lake and Monte Altissimo are always in view. The 360° view of the lake from the highest point is magnificent and - just like the climbs - takes our breath away.

The nature-loving trail on the border between Lombardy and Trentino winds its way along old paths through the lush Mediterranean landscape and the typical Lake Garda tunnels over an altitude difference of 800 metres and 9 km. Steep climbs and rocky descents provide variety even for experienced cyclists. The route crosses meadows and forests between the mountains of the Upper Lake Garda area and the Garda classic Passo Tremalzo. On the hills around the Rifugio Passo Nota, we come across old war relics: the Italian trenches from the First World War and a small military cemetery for war dead send us on a mental journey through time. The region's reputation for being indomitable and well hidden comes back to mind and makes it clear why Tremosine sul Garda is so wonderfully different.

The ascent is followed by the descent. The trail is not particularly technically demanding, but you should always be careful with the typical Lake Garda surface. The subsequent descent is fast and requires maximum concentration, as the trail now becomes even more technically demanding. Boulders, tight bends in places and rapid changes between shade and sunshine test our reactions. Skill is required here. In between, the clearings offer spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. If you're still drawn to the water after the nature tour, cycle through the tunnel down to the tiny hamlet of Campione del Garda, south of Limone. It is the only part of Tremosine that is not located on the sunny plateau, but on a narrow spit of land directly on Lake Garda. Here we enjoy a creamy cappuccino and a crostata al limone. And the scent of lemon everywhere.