Dobbiaco has always been a connecting place. The basis for the development of Dobbiaco was the Strada d'Alemagna trade route, which connected Venice and Augsburg via the Puster and Höhlenstein valleys. During the First World War, the front line ran along the mountains around Dobbiaco and even today, Dobbiaco is still a connecting point between East and South Tyrol. Whether you take the road or - like us - old military paths.

We start via the Höhlensteintal valley and soon turn off towards the Silvesteralm. This is where the old military road begins, which was used to supply the frontline soldiers during the First World War. It is not the only remnant of this bloody time on our route. We wind our way upwards, hairpin bend by hairpin bend, with the ridge always in view. We see a blue spray-painted Stoneman symbol on the walls of some of the hairpin bends and there are also a surprising number of stoamandl next to the paths. However, when you realise that Roland Stauder's original Stoneman runs right here, the surprise is no longer so great. We soon pass a stamping point for the Stoneman Dolomiti circuit at the foot of the Strickberg.

With the last of our strength, we manage the ascent to Strickberg by pedalling. Here we want to take a breather and let our gaze wander:

• on one side, the Marchkinkele, which at just over 2,500 metres is one of the highest peaks in the Villgratner mountains, right on the border between East and South Tyrol,
• on the other side the Dolomites and
• impressively illuminated by the morning light, two of the 3 Peaks.

At Marchkinkele, we can still see the remains of old bunkers from the First World War - now adorned with a cheering slogan for the Stoneman. This shows pretty well how historical infrastructures here are subject to constant change: Today, what counts here are exciting mountain bike tours instead of contested summits.

Now it's time to start the descent on the Marchkinkele Trail in the 3 Zinnen Dolomites region. From the Strickberg we have 3 options to get back to the Silvesteralm - all exciting, full of trails and quite challenging:

• 700 metres in altitude and
• 7 km have to be covered
• the high alpine trail structure requires good riding technique

We start with a big grin on our faces - after all, we can already see large sections of the single trail ahead of us: The trail runs along a slightly curved ridge, alternating between meadow and gravel sections, and as soon as we lift our heads, we have the Dolomites directly in view. It's not so easy to concentrate on the path. We have to stop again and again to enjoy the panorama so that we can then focus on the trail again. This demands our focus and deserves it, as the changes in surface and gradient are so varied.

From the halfway point, the first trees reappear, initially sparse pines, later the forest becomes denser and denser, swallowing up the path and eventually us too. Shortly before the Silvesteralm, we reach the forest path and can cross it in a relaxed manner, catch our breath and savour the anticipation of a good Italian espresso. We enjoy this on the sunny terrace of the Silvesteralm in the afternoon with a view of a small but beautiful biotope above the hut.

From here we return to Dobbiaco - of course not without making a detour to Lake Dobbiaco. This is idyllically situated in the Höhlenstein valley and really hardy bikers can refresh themselves here after the trail tour. But be careful! This mountain lake is fed by the Rienz river and is not at the usual Central European bathing temperature!

After this detour, we enjoy an aperitif on the terrace with a view of the Neunerkofel and Birkenkofel peaks. We study the menu and have a smile on our faces in view of the options we still have here - between

• Stoneman & Prato Piazza
• East & South Tyrol
• 3 Peaks & Marchkinkele