As early as the 9th century, the Paznaun Valley was settled by Rhaeto-Romanic people from the Engadin via the Fimber Pass and used as pastureland. The flourishing smuggling trade is therefore just another entry in the dense history book of the valley, which has apparently always been in constant exchange with the outside world. Tourism is probably just the next step. Another exchange and a process that is constantly changing.

Today, summer tourism is characterised by mountain biking and other mountain sports. Not only does the Fimber Pass serve as a crossing into the Engadin, but bikers can now also reach Switzerland via the Flimjoch over former smugglers' trails - and back again.

It's not the first time I've stood up here. And I can still remember coming up here with friends for sunrise a few years ago. We climbed up in the dark and huddled together on the ridge, shivering slightly, waiting for the warming sun. But even before the first rays caught us, the 2,900 metre-high Berglerkopf in the Verwall group opposite us was lit up in orange. What a sight! We began to grin to ourselves and finally we too were bathed in soft morning light.

... and muleteers are also present here at this altitude. The smugglers' trail leads down into the Engadin and the small huts that once served as camps are still standing. Where once backpacks weighing 40 to 50kg were hurriedly carried over the mountain, today we cycle. A powerful feeling. The Flimjochtrail single trail takes us directly

• directly from the ridge line to the Idalp 435 metres below
• this is where the MTB single trail starts at over 2,700 m
• in the middle of the impressive high alpine landscape
• with numerous curves, waves & berms
• the trail winds along the slope

At over 2,900 metres, we were particularly taken with the Berglerkopf among the many counter peaks. The memory of the sunrise is still amazingly vivid. At the Idalp we meet a group of people crossing the Alps. Over coffee and cake, they take us with them on their journey. They keep coming back to Paznaun, they tell us. Their first two crossings had already taken them on the Joe and Albrecht route over the Fimber Pass and now they simply wanted something new. To do this, the hikers cross over the Flimjoch into the Engadin. This mixture of old smuggling stories, the small chapels in the valley and the impressive landscape between the Verwall and Silvretta groups is what brings them back here again and again. A longing that we can empathise with.

"We are still above the tree line here and so our gaze glides over the surrounding mountains again and again."

After this little refreshment, we are now spoilt for choice at the Idalp: we can take the Taja Trail down into the valley or return to the ridge and follow the Vellil Trail downhill. Today we opt for the Taja Trail, which leads us to the alp of the same name over numerous wooden footbridges and through lush green meadows. We are still above the tree line here and our gaze glides over the surrounding mountains again and again. This singletrail mixture of

• high alpine rocky landscape
• lush green meadows and
• finally forest
• of flow and
• technical challenge in the final section

are the ideal conclusion to our first Paznaun tour. The valley has one or two surprises in store not only for our Alpine crossers, but also for us. One or two trails that we haven't ridden yet. But first, let's cross one trail off our bucket list ... and then add numerous other single trails in the Paznaun - Ischgl bike region. So that we can continue to feel connected to the old smugglers and brave Alpine crossers.